Battery pk takes 3AA which will be included. Adding additional blacklight in background makes for brightest & best results but is'nt necessary although I def recommend it. Frame insert where blacklights are attached should fit any other 11×14 shadow box frame for an easy swap if a frame change is desired. Power box runs to the bottom of frame & is attached w/velcro for easy access to on\off switch & batteries. Will react to reg.light but glow results are nowhere near as strong.Shadow box insert is llined w/blacklights. 11×14 frame, 9 × 12 blacklight reactive & glow in the dark. (I know, this thread is about a black light poster frame - I'm going to try something a little more extreme for this next one.#CapCut A A truly 1 of a kind painting that can never be duplicated or made into prints due to glow feature. I'll post the end result when I eventually get it done. I'm going to use that as an edge perimeter that should be a cool effect as the RGB strip fades from one color to the next. Put the back of the backbox back on, mount the frame, and plug it in.Įxtra stuff to say - Below is a pic showing some poster board that I also bought at Michaels that reflects the RGB lights differently for each color - pretty cool. Test the lights again to make sure that they still work.ħ) Attach the poster to the back of the shadow box using a method of your choice.Ĭlean the glass one more time (if needed). The pic below is off another frame that I'm currently working on that I'm adding RGB lights to for displaying some Wonka themed signed stuff and various paraphernalia. The ink used contains a phosphor that glows when.
Cut the LED strip at the last place on the strip that show the scissors icon. A blacklight poster or black light poster is a poster printed with inks that fluoresce under black light. The sticky backing on the LEDs never seems to hold good enough, so use a very small amount of Elmer's glue or Gorilla hot glue (if you can be quick with it) to help keep them stuck.
Clean up any saw dust from drilling (I suggest vacuuming the dust so that it doesn't get between the molding and the glass)Ħ) Add the LED lights around the frame. Test the light to make sure that they work properly. Feed the wire/connector through the hole. Drill a hole through the corner molding and frame (so that the wire wont be visible inside the frame) at the location you want. If there is anything white in the frame, its an.
Make sure there is 100% coverage, if not, add another coat (with no drips)Ĥ) Clean the glass then put the molding back into the frame and glue the outside edge of the corner moldings to the inside frame of the shadow box frame and let dry for at least a half a day.ĥ) Pick which side of which corner the LED strip wire should go through (top/bottom, right/left). Using a black light is the only way I know to determine whether a piece of acrylic is UV-filtering or standard.
Test fit the moldings in place.ģ) Remove the corner moldings from the test fit (above) and paint all sides of the molding pieces flat black and let dry. You can always shave off a little more if you have a power miter box saw. It needs to be a snug fit, so I advise to cut it a saw blade width longer than you measured. 1) 24x18 shadowbox frame (sometimes they put them on sale for 50% off) - Ģ) LED light strip with the 120 volt adapter - I got mine off of eBay.ģ) Outside corner molding (L - shaped), wood, pre-finished (already painted white so that you don't need to worry about primer and wood grain showing through) - I bought an 8 foot piece at Home DepotĤ) Flat black spray paint - I got it at Home Depot while I was thereĦ) Drill and drill bit the size of the wire/connector coming off of the LED stripġ) Take the back off of the shadowbox and measure the inside dimensions (exactly) up against the front plastic/glassĢ) Using a miter box saw, cut the wood corner molding on 45 degree angles to fit around the inside of the frame with one flat surface of the molding against the glass.
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